Arxan was our first big stop. One thing I hadn’t realised before we went: Arxan city and the forest scenic area are separate places. Arriving in the city doesn’t mean you’ve reached the rivers and lakes up in the forest; we had to drive between them.

Rolling hills and roadside woodland on the approach to Arxan. (6 seconds).

A city evening, then the stars

In the city, the evening light caught the buildings and reflected on the water. Later, the yellow station building was lit against the dark.

Evening reflections on the water in Arxan city.
Evening reflections on the water in Arxan city.
Arxan railway station lit up after dark.
Arxan railway station lit up after dark.
Two more city views
Warm evening light reflected in a glass-fronted building.
Warm evening light reflected in a glass-fronted building.
The last glow of sunset between the city buildings in Arxan.
The last glow of sunset between the city buildings in Arxan.

On the evening we arrived in Arxan, we also went out to look at the stars. There was little light pollution where we were, and no cloud or mist in the way. We were lucky: the sky was full of them.

Neither my phone nor the camera lens we had could capture it, so that sky only exists in my memory.

Rivers through the autumn woodland

Up in the scenic area, rivers curved between grassy banks and woodland. Some bends opened out across the valley; in other places, you could see the stones by the water. The trees were a mixture of gold, yellow-green and deeper green.

There were cows by the river too, standing on the bank or in the shallow water, with autumn trees behind them.

A river winding between grassy banks and autumn woodland.
A river winding between grassy banks and autumn woodland.
A bright stretch of river between wooded slopes.
A bright stretch of river between wooded slopes.
Wooded slopes and autumn colours in the Arxan scenic area. (4 seconds).
More river and woodland views
Stones along the water’s edge beneath an autumn sky.
Stones along the water’s edge beneath an autumn sky.
A broad river bend beneath dramatic clouds.
A broad river bend beneath dramatic clouds.
The river winding across an autumn valley.
The river winding across an autumn valley.
Clouds and sunlight above the winding river.
Clouds and sunlight above the winding river.
Cows beside a river backed by autumn woodland.
Cows beside a river backed by autumn woodland.

Arxan lies in the southwestern Greater Khingan range. Its UNESCO geopark includes volcanic landscapes and crater lakes alongside the forests.

This was the small pot

Up in Arxan, we had tieguodun (铁锅炖), an iron-pot stew with pork ribs and chicken. It was so good.

A pot cost RMB200-something, and the four of us couldn’t finish it. This was the small pot…

If I ranked all the iron-pot stews I’ve eaten, this one would come first.

Chicken-and-pork-rib iron-pot stew in Arxan. This was the small pot, and four of us could not finish it.
Chicken-and-pork-rib iron-pot stew in Arxan. This was the small pot, and four of us could not finish it.

Down jackets at the Budong River

It was nearly freezing when we went to the Budong River (不冻河) for the morning mist and sunrise. We were wearing down jackets.

We timed our arrival quite closely. After waiting ten minutes or so, we saw the sun come up. Mist lay across the river, and golden light reached the trees and caught in the water.

As soon as the sunshine came through, it felt warm, and I felt a lot better too. There were lots of other people there. Well, that’s part of the experience.

The horizon brightening beyond the river and trees.
The horizon brightening beyond the river and trees.
Morning mist beneath a sky warming towards sunrise.
Morning mist beneath a sky warming towards sunrise.
Golden sunrise reflected through the low river mist.
Golden sunrise reflected through the low river mist.
Sunrise, river mist and sunlit autumn trees at the Budong River. (17 seconds).
More from the river at dawn
Blue-grey dawn mist over the Budong River.
Blue-grey dawn mist over the Budong River.
Pink-tinged clouds above the misty river at dawn.
Pink-tinged clouds above the misty river at dawn.
Sunlit autumn trees beside a broad bank of mist.
Sunlit autumn trees beside a broad bank of mist.
Warm light on the riverbank beneath thick morning mist.
Warm light on the riverbank beneath thick morning mist.
Thick mist hanging over the water in early light.
Thick mist hanging over the water in early light.
Soft sunrise colours in the mist above the river.
Soft sunrise colours in the mist above the river.
Low mist drifting above the rippled surface of the river.
Low mist drifting above the rippled surface of the river.

Tianchi and Dujuan Lake: I wouldn’t pay again

We also went into the paid area to see Tianchi (天池) and Dujuan Lake (杜鹃湖). Tianchi was enclosed by wooded slopes; Dujuan Lake opened into a broader stretch of water, reflecting the sky.

Tianchi and its wooded slopes in the ticketed part of Arxan.
Tianchi and its wooded slopes in the ticketed part of Arxan.
Sky and clouds reflected in Dujuan Lake.
Sky and clouds reflected in Dujuan Lake.
Another view of Tianchi
Blue water and autumn woodland around Tianchi.
Blue water and autumn woodland around Tianchi.

But would I recommend paying for these stops? No. I preferred the scenery we could see without buying those tickets.

On our September 2026 visit, we paid RMB300 for the car plus RMB180 per person. For four people, that came to RMB1,020. We finished the paid stops on our outing in a morning. For that money, I didn’t think they were worth it.

That’s just my view of our visit. Given the choice again, I’d spend the time and money on the river valleys, the Budong River at dawn, and another night under that sky.

Our eighteen-day road trip

  1. Setting Off for Inner Mongolia: Four Friends and Eighteen Days
  2. Arxan in Autumn: River Mist, Stars and a Very Good Stew
  3. From Grassland to Golden Forest: Erguna and Mordaoga
  4. With the Ergun River Beside Us: The Border Road and Heishantou
  5. The Way Back: Barbecue, Harbin and the Road to Beijing

About this note

This note draws on my own travels and photographs and videos.

Spotted a mistake? Let me know.