The Way Back: Barbecue, Harbin and the Road to Beijing

From Hulunbuir, we headed back via Qiqihar, Harbin, Changchun, Shenyang, Jinzhou and Tangshan, before returning to Beijing. We kept eating and exploring along the way.

Qiqihar: the barbecue really was that good

In Qiqihar, we had barbecue. Honestly, it felt as though you could pick any place along the road and eat well. We even saw plenty of cars from Harbin. I could understand why so many people say Qiqihar is the place to go for barbecue.

For me, it was better than the barbecue I’d eaten anywhere else. I don’t know what they do differently. Maybe it’s the meat, maybe the dipping seasoning.

Harbin, and a thought at 33

In Harbin (哈尔滨), we saw Saint Sophia Cathedral (圣索菲亚大教堂) lit up at night. There were lots of people having portraits taken around it.

We also visited Harbin Institute of Technology (哈尔滨工业大学). The campus had such a youthful feel, with students all around. I was already 33, and looking at them, I found myself thinking how good it is to be young.

A zoo in Changchun, then Shenyang’s history

In Changchun (长春), we went to the zoo.

In Shenyang (沈阳), we visited the Qing-era Imperial Palace and Zhang Xueliang’s former residence. Shenyang’s palace belonged to the early Qing court before the capital moved to Beijing. Zhang Xueliang’s residence takes the story forward to the region’s more recent history.

These were visits along our route home. I didn’t take many photographs on this part of the journey.

Jinzhou: good barbecue, strong seasoning

We also had barbecue in Jinzhou (锦州), and it was very good. Jinzhou barbecue was named one of Liaoning’s top ten local specialities in 2021.

For my taste, the seasoning was heavy. If you prefer lighter flavours, ask them to go easy on it when you order; otherwise it can be far too salty.

I forgot to take a photo of this one…

Getting the hang of driving

Over the trip, my friends made sure I got plenty of practice, with a few hundred kilometres behind the wheel each day. I finally got the hang of driving and was holding my own on the motorways too.

You really do encounter everything: slow cars, drivers stopping on the road, and people who’d missed their exit but still tried to turn towards it…

Before I drove, I couldn’t understand how drivers felt. With my hands on the wheel, I finally got it. Honestly, I wanted to swear.

Tangshan, then Beijing

In Tangshan (唐山), we had a wander around Hetou Old Street (河头老街), a canal-side visitor district in Fengnan.

On 29 September, we were back in Beijing. Eighteen days, four people, and the road trip was over.

Our eighteen-day road trip

1. Setting Off for Inner Mongolia: Four Friends and Eighteen Days
2. Arxan in Autumn: River Mist, Stars and a Very Good Stew
3. From Grassland to Golden Forest: Erguna and Mordaoga
4. With the Ergun River Beside Us: The Border Road and Heishantou
5. The Way Back: Barbecue, Harbin and the Road to Beijing